Walk About x2

Not sure the family of the 4,000 shipped from Kilmainham Gaol to Australia would appreciate the title to these last 2 blogs, but gives them yet another connection to what we are seeing/experiencing on this trip - - a tip of the hat to the past, and one hell of a lot of exercise.  I think we managed about 6 miles today on foot, but it really is a great way to see a lot of different parts of the city.

We were immediately aware of an increased security presence on one of our routes this morning.  Turns out the first Sunday of the month is the horse traders' fair just a couple of blocks from our hotel.  Some serious looking security personnel, greater in numbers and in purpose than what we have been seeing, were conspicuously present.  Turns out, according to a very informative cabby, the fair brings in a lot of travelers/gypsies, who used to be seen walking down the streets of Dublin with horses that weren't exactly "papered."  They are trying to change that now, imposing more regulations without shutting it down, and trying to eliminate the violence that occurred last month - - a shooting and a stabbing.  We decided to not take that route at night again.

Well, move over Mood Swing, there is another wild ride in the park.  An American drives in Dublin for the first time.  Picked up the car today.  Why does everybody insist on driving on the wrong side of the road?  They just wouldn't get out of the way.  Kidding, it wasn't that bad, except Tam got a big kick out of my winding out the clutch the first couple of times.  We also squealed out of the rental car lot.  Bet they figured a new car is on the way.  No worries, that size car can't really cost more than a buck fifty.  Quite a trick getting in and out of a pop can on wheels.

First "fun" stop - Kilmainham Gaol - - that's JAIL.  An ominous place set on a hill which has had a major role in all of the fights for independence, including the civil war when brother guarded brother, and comrades in arms were forced by circumstances to do the unthinkable to their former fellow soldiers. 
   

The ONLY time I want to be in a cell.  Not much longer than me and even shorter side to side.  Can't imagine winters in a wet limestone cell, no glass in the windows, no heat in the cell.

 
Leaders of the Easter Rising in 1916 were executed in the Stone Breaker's Yard (they did exactly that, broke stones for constructing the streets in Dublin).  This site is where Connolly was executed, at the other end of the yard from the others - - because he was too weak from his wounds to stand, they brought him in the gate, tied him to a chair, and shot him.

 
Commemorative Plague in Stone Breaker's Yard.  The wife of Joseph Plunkett, Grace Gifford, was jailed here.  She drew the following image of Mother and Child in her cell (it's been restored).

The only reason this drawing was allowed, along with some of the graffitti outside and above the cells, is because these prisoners were afforded prisoner of war status.



Finally, this view of the East Wing has been seen in many films, including In The Name of My Father with Daniel Day Lewis and Michael Collins with Liam Neeson. 

From the unenlighted (administrators/gaolers) to the enlightened and educated.  Next stop was Trinity College and the Book of Kells. Was in jail once today, so didn't want to risk taking forbidden pictures of the Book of Kells and the oldest harp in Ireland (the Brian Boru or O'Neill harp - - the more tempting of the two ;-) ).  But, a good shot of the main yard in Trinity College.

We had a brilliant young man give us the tour, very pleasant, very bright with a great sense of humor.  A little potter-esque in his glasses and robes - - a fact not lost on him and quickly attributed to his boss, but fun to listen to.  The largest single chamber library in Europe - - by five feet - - is something to see with over 200,000 volumes.  The Book of Kells themselves were mostly displayed as blow up presentations, but two actual volumes were on display.  I don't have the right words to describe seeing such intricate, colorful manuscripts written over 1200 years ago.

We stumbled our way out of Trinity College and into St. Stephen's Green.  No, they didn't serve Guinness at the Gaol or at Trinity, it's just that day three was starting into its twilight and we were getting a little weary.  But, onward and upward, we had things to see.  And we did.  Three days of rain came to a halt, and the sun broke through. A perfect time to visit this magnificent park.

Of course, before dinner, we had to track down another mandatory stop.  The Celtic Whiskey Shop of course.  A wee bit of a surprise coming home in the carry-on!

So, as self-appointed honorary Dubliners, we are going south on Holiday.  We leave for Cork in the morning and will probably head there via the Wicklow Mountains.  Not the most direct route, but that's not what this trip is about and we have it on good authority that County Wicklow is the largest garden in the country!